Me at the Monastery in Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan: The Hike to the Monastery and the Wildest Donkey Ride of My Life

In February 2018, I visited Petra, Jordan, a destination that had been on my bucket list for years since watching “Indiana Jones” as a kid.

What I expected was incredible history, breathtaking scenery, and a memorable hike to the famous Monastery.

What I didn’t expect was a day filled with ancient wonders, unexpected friendships, and one of the funniest travel stories I’ve ever experienced.

As a hiker, I’ve visited countless beautiful places around the world, but nothing prepared me for my first glimpse of Petra.

Hidden within the rugged desert mountains of southern Jordan, this ancient city is one of the world’s greatest archaeological treasures and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Carved directly into rose-colored sandstone cliffs more than 2,000 years ago, Petra was once the thriving capital of the Nabataean Kingdom and an important crossroads for trade routes connecting Arabia, Egypt, and the Mediterranean.

The Nabataeans were master engineers, creating sophisticated water systems that allowed a large city to flourish in the harsh desert environment. Today, visitors can still see evidence of their ingenuity throughout the site.

The Geology of Petra

One of the most fascinating aspects of Petra is the landscape itself.

The city is carved into layers of sandstone that were formed millions of years ago. The rock displays stunning bands of red, pink, orange, yellow, white, and even purple hues, created by iron oxide and other minerals deposited over time.

As sunlight shifts throughout the day, the colors seem to change before your eyes. It’s easy to understand why Petra is often called the “Rose City.”

Walking Through the Siq

Our adventure began at the Siq, a narrow sandstone gorge that serves as Petra’s grand entrance.

The Siq stretches for approximately 1.2 kilometers (three-quarters of a mile) and is flanked by towering walls reaching up to 80 meters high. Walking through this winding canyon feels like entering another world. Every bend reveals new colors and textures in the rock.

The anticipation builds with every step because you know something incredible awaits at the end.

Then suddenly, it appears.

The Treasury

The Treasury, or Al-Khazneh, is Petra’s most famous monument.

Standing nearly 40 meters (130 feet) tall, the intricately carved façade emerges dramatically from the canyon walls. Most people recognize it from the final scenes of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, but seeing it in person is an entirely different experience.

No photograph can truly capture the scale or beauty of the Treasury. I stood there staring at it for what felt like forever.

Most visitors spend their time around the Treasury before turning back, but Petra has so much more to offer.

Beyond the Treasury

Continuing deeper into the ancient city, we passed the Roman-style Theater, carved directly into the rock face and capable of holding thousands of spectators.

We explored the Colonnaded Street and the Church Complex, where archaeologists discovered beautiful Byzantine mosaics that provide a glimpse into Petra’s later Christian period.

Everywhere we looked were tombs, temples, caves, and monuments carved into the colorful sandstone cliffs.

But there was one destination I was determined to reach.

The Monastery.

The Hike to the Monastery

My friend Nicole and I decided to leave our tour group at the Treasury and make our own adventure to Ad Deir, better known as The Monastery.

Reaching the Monastery requires climbing more than 800 rock-cut steps.

Depending on where you start, the hike is roughly 2 miles round-trip from the basin area, with approximately 700-800 feet (220-240 meters) of elevation gain. Most hikers take between 45 and 75 minutes to reach the top. The climb is steep in places, but the views make every step worthwhile.

As we climbed higher, Petra seemed to unfold beneath us. The desert mountains stretched endlessly into the distance, and every turn revealed another breathtaking vista.

Then we reached it.

Me at the Monastery in Petra, Jordan

The Monastery is enormous! Larger than the Treasury and far less crowded. Carved into a sandstone cliff during the first century AD, its massive façade stands nearly 50 meters tall.

Standing in front of it felt surreal.

The climb was absolutely worth it.

Losing Track of Time

Nicole and I were having such a great time exploring that we completely lost track of time.

Eventually, we checked the clock and realized we had a problem.

A big problem.

We had only about ten minutes before we were supposed to leave Petra with our group.

The only issue?

We were miles from the main entrance.

Without hesitation, we started running.

Down the steps.

Past viewpoints.

Past other tourists.

Past ancient ruins.

We were doing our best to make up impossible time when two young Bedouin men riding donkeys stopped us.

With charming smiles and a healthy dose of flirtation, they asked if we wanted a ride back toward the entrance.

“Sure!”

A few moments later, Nicole and I were riding through Petra on donkeys, laughing hysterically and feeling pretty pleased with ourselves.

Me and my Bedouin donkey driver

High Speed Chase on Donkeys Through Petra

Then things got interesting.

A police officer on horseback approached us from behind and called out something in a language that we didn’t understand.

Whatever was said got an immediate reaction from our Bedouin drivers.

Suddenly, they urged the donkeys forward at full speed.

And just like that, Nicole and I found ourselves in what felt like a scene from an action movie.

There we were…

Two American women riding donkeys through an ancient wonder of the world.

Being pursued by a police officer on horseback.

Unfortunately, the donkeys eventually ran out of steam before the officer ran out of horse.

The officer caught up with us and instructed Nicole and me to get off the donkeys.

We figured walking the rest of the way was probably the safest plan.

To this day, I have no idea what happened after that or what the conversation was between the officer and the Bedouin men.

What I do know is that those two guys were very kind and tried to help us, and for that I will always be grateful to them.

Nicole and her Bedouin donkey driver (me in the background)

Final Thoughts

Petra is more than a famous photo of the Treasury.

It’s a place where history, geology, culture, and adventure come together in a spectacular way.

From the towering walls of the Siq to the breathtaking climb to the Monastery, every step felt like walking through a living history book.

And while the Treasury and the Monastery were unforgettable, my favorite memory may always be the one that I still laugh about today… the day that Nicole and I found ourselves on a high speed chase on donkeys through Petra.

Travel doesn’t get much better than that.

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